Computing/Kolink Enclave PSU: Difference between revisions

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NOTE: Regulator is actually NC on 2, not GND.
NOTE: Regulator is actually NC on 2, not GND.


NOTE 2: Pinouts are viewed from the front of the cable connector, wires out the back. Not from the PSU socket perspective.


Using a Regulator power cable on an Enclave supply will fry a SATA drive by dumping 12V on to the 5V pins, and 12V on to the 5V pins.
Using a Regulator power cable on an Enclave supply will fry a SATA drive by overvolting the 5V and 3.3V rails.
 


The connector is a Mini-Fit Jr style, which requires a special tool to release the locking tab on the metal ferrule inside the plastic housing. It can be finagled with a needle apparently, but I wasn't inclined to try this. Instead, I cut the three non-ground wires, tinned them, re-checked the continuity, sleeved and soldered the correct wire to the correct pin. Before heat-shrinking, I re-verified the continuity.
The connector is a Mini-Fit Jr style, which requires a special tool to release the locking tab on the metal ferrule inside the plastic housing. It can be finagled with a needle apparently, but I wasn't inclined to try this. Instead, I cut the three non-ground wires, tinned them, re-checked the continuity, sleeved and soldered the correct wire to the correct pin. Before heat-shrinking, I re-verified the continuity.

Latest revision as of 07:45, 19 August 2026

The Kolink Enclave PSU (at least the 500W, the only one I have) has a different 6-pin pinout for powering hard drives than the Regulator series. This poses a problem when Enclave cables cannot be found on the 'net for love nor money.

Pinouts
Enclave 6-pin
Regulator 6-pin

NOTE: Regulator is actually NC on 2, not GND.

NOTE 2: Pinouts are viewed from the front of the cable connector, wires out the back. Not from the PSU socket perspective.

Using a Regulator power cable on an Enclave supply will fry a SATA drive by overvolting the 5V and 3.3V rails.

The connector is a Mini-Fit Jr style, which requires a special tool to release the locking tab on the metal ferrule inside the plastic housing. It can be finagled with a needle apparently, but I wasn't inclined to try this. Instead, I cut the three non-ground wires, tinned them, re-checked the continuity, sleeved and soldered the correct wire to the correct pin. Before heat-shrinking, I re-verified the continuity.